Eataly’s Italian Kingdom Expands to SoHo

0

Headliner

Eataly SoHo

This, the third Eataly in Manhattan, the ninth in the United States and the 49th worldwide, is more restaurant than food market. About half the 20,000-square-foot space, smaller than the Eataly locations in the Flatiron and financial districts, is taken up by a 200-seat dining room and bar, generously windowed, with a brick wall and a bar done in natural wood. Just past the restaurant is the cafe, a casual all-day coffee bar with tables serving pastries, breakfast fare and other light food like Roman-style pizza alla pala. Unlike the usual Eataly template, there are no dining counters in the retail food departments like the pizzeria or butcher. The restaurant’s wine list and menu are thoroughly Italian, with beef carpaccio, cold seafood salad, radicchio salad, tagliatelle Bolognese, rigatoni carbonara, lasagna with mushroom ragù and various pizzas. The market side of the establishment sells groceries like sauces, oils, pastas and condiments, including some newly anointed with Eataly’s private label. Fresh food like produce, meats, seafood, cheeses and charcuterie is all prepackaged. Tommaso Brusò, the new chief executive of Eataly North America, said another 20 Eatalys are planned for North America in the next five years. And while they’re at it, they will also be expanding the Flatiron district store next spring. (Opens Nov. 25)

Opening

HAAM

Formerly takeout-only and based in Sunnyside, Queens, this plant-based Caribbean spot has become a proper restaurant in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. It’s by the chef and owner Yesenia Ramdass, whose cooking is inspired by her family’s Dominican heritage and the Trinidadian background of her husband, Randy Ramdass. There are 30 seats and six bar perches in the space, which is done with straw and green for an island feel. The menu showcases jerk barbecued mushrooms in a yellow rice ball, mashed yucca with king oyster mushroom “scallops,” a sweet plantain boat stuffed with lentils and cabbage slaw, Yuh Motha’s mofongo with lion’s mane mushrooms and cream sauce and arroz con leche rice pudding made with cashew milk. There’s takeout and delivery. (Wednesday)

Bash Burger

John McDonald has joined forces with Stephen Hanson, another restaurateur, to open this minimalist burger stall in an Urbanspace food hall. The menu offers but two choices: the Classic, like the one you’d have found at Mr. McDonald’s Burger & Barrel, now closed, with cheese, lettuce and tomato; and the Bash Burger, also a four-ounce patty with the addition of bacon, onion jam and shaved pickles, and so named because it has repeatedly taken first place in the New York City Wine & Food festival’s burger bash contest. Fries, fountain drinks, beer, wine and cocktails are served.

Champagne and Caviar Bar

The finishing touches are complete and this new luxury lounge on the lower level of the RH Guesthouse in the meatpacking district has opened. Tuna cornets, brioche lobster rolls, seafood and meat tartares, and potatoes all come with scoops of Petrossian caviar; menu items start at $40. And if you prefer your caviar neat, with the usual accouterments, it’s served that way too. Champagnes are offered by the glass, half-bottle and bottle and there are cocktails as well. The chairman of RH, Gary Friedman, has plans to open more of these jewel boxes, in London, Paris and Aspen, Colo.

The Mark Chalet by Jean-Georges

Put those Uggs on your feet and bundle up. As winter approaches, Jean-Georges Vongerichten is ready for you on the Upper East Side. He has turned part of his sidewalk dining complex at the Mark Hotel into a chalet with heaters, faux sheepskin throws, checked tablecloths and knotty wood walls decorated with snowshoes, a sled and skis. The menu is more Matterhorn than Madison Avenue with lentil soup, onion tart, a copious cheese fondue, veal tenderloin with spaetzle, and arctic char, a fish that’s also native to Lake Geneva where it’s called omble chevalier. Desserts include a Mont Blanc, and the wine list is Swiss. “I’m so happy to finally be able to do this,” said the chef, Pierre Schutz, who has worked in Vongerichten restaurants for decades and is Swiss, from Lausanne.

Malka

The Israeli chef Eyal Shani has converted his North Miznon restaurant into this, his first kosher restaurant in the United States. The menu will feature charred beetroot carpaccio with a horseradish topping, latkes, a chicken schnitzel and grouper shawarma. It will observe the Sabbath and be closed from Friday sundown to Saturday sundown. (Saturday)

Parla

Pizzas, round and square with more than 10 pies take center stage, along with assorted vegetables and snacks like pepperoni meatballs at this new concept from Corner Table Restaurants, best known for the Smith. Dinner is served now, and an all-day menu will follow. There’s a full bar. (Wednesday)

Zumbador

Inside Nowadays, an event space, Fernando Adan and Maria Bravo, a husband and wife from Puebla, Mexico, have opened this homage to their roots. Their menu includes pozole, ensalada de nopales, chicken in a dark mole sauce, ribs in green sauce, several tacos and chapulines, crisply toasted grasshoppers with lime, salt and chile flakes. Tequila and mezcal dominate the drinks list.

Cloves Indian Cuisine

The restaurateurs Syed Haider and Abdul Rocky are opening this Northern Indian spot just beyond the Little India neighborhood in Manhattan. It serves a long roster of popular meat, seafood, vegetable and rice dishes, and breads by the chef de cuisine Ashish Negi, formerly at Utsav. Vijay Bhargava, who was the executive chef at Raga, is consulting. (Wednesday)

Tigre

The cocktail experts at Maison Premiere, in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, have crossed the river to open this plush lounge with drinks that deploy some unusual spirits, like Singani, bacanora, raicilla, moscato chinato. Food is on the horizon. (Wednesday)

Agency of Record

This lounge and restaurant in the historic Renwick Hotel, serving inventive and classic cocktails, is done with 1960s Mad Men-era swank and polish. Food from a kitchen fueled with wood includes duck fat fries, grilled prawns with Calabrian chile butter, a French onion burger and vegetable shawarma.

Branches

Poppy’s

A new Brooklyn Heights location of the Cobble Hill cafe and market has opened in the former Cranberry’s, a neighborhood favorite.

Follow New York Times Cooking on Instagram, Facebook, YouTube, TikTok and Pinterest. Get regular updates from New York Times Cooking, with recipe suggestions, cooking tips and shopping advice.

The post Eataly’s Italian Kingdom Expands to SoHo appeared first on New York Times.

Leave A Reply